MARINE PARADE

The New Perlustration of Great Yarmouth front page

Marine Parade about 1850

The Barracks, 1853

South of Marine Parade, the Great Yarmouth barracks site was acquired in 1875 on the South Denes. The site of 21 acres then cost £1,635, and the barracks could accommodate 185 men. In 1888 it was being used for convalescent soldiers.*3 When Florence Waters was a young girl, living in row 137, she often visited soldiers in the barracks, in the hope of obtaining food for her family.*4 Above is a picture of the old barracks, and click to the right for some pictures of the new barrack estate when first built.*5Barrack estate being built about 1929.htm

Britannia on the column on South Denes, faces Nelson’s birthplace.

Goat Carts on the beach, 19thC., later banned.

Laying tramlines opposite the jetty, 1901-2.

The Jetty, about 1850.

The jetty after the gale of 1906

about 1910

1920’s

Wellington Pier before the theatre was built (pre-1903).

The Wellington Pavillion (built 1903)

Wellington pier before the pavilion was built upon it

about 1910

In 1891 three acres of gardens were laid out between the Wellington Pier and the jetty, and before the second world war there were eight hard tennis courts.*6 The Corporation acquired the Wellington pier in 1900, and it was then that they laid out the Wellington gardens, of 2.5 acres, with band stand, tea rooms, and shelter with seats for 1000 people. The pier was rebuilt in 1903, with a new pavilion for 1000 people. The corporation purchased the Winter Garden building from Torquay in 1903, which was re-erected to the north of the pier, and is 170 feet long and 85 feet at its widest. It could seat 2000 people, and had flower beds all round the interior, and an organ at one end (above the entrance) that used to play, amongst other things, music for skaters. There was a great celebration here on 20th.October 1905, commemorating Trafalgar, with a massed meeting of 3000 children in the presence of the mayor, Dr.A.C.Mayo. The outside (roller) skating rink of half an acre, was added in 1908. An undertaker's conference met here in 1927*9 Greenery was trailed across the roof in arches. Acacia and eucalyptus were planted alternately. "Morning Glory" with its blue flowers was incorporated. Many years later, from 1953 to 1987, Gladys Gibbs*7Gibbs, wellington.htm ran the buffet in the Biergarten (Winter Garden). There is a presentation photo commemorating her retirement depicting a presentation by the mayor, Brenda Mills(7th.Feb.1987). This was then a Tyrolean style indoor garden, and open all the year round.

Regency Flats, June 1987

Sutherland House on the west side of Marine Parade, was first built as a gentleman's residence, for David Falke, a wealthy Jew, who had the house blessed by the Chief Rabbi of England. He lived in the house from 1861, but later died on the continent of Cholera. It Ceasing to be used as a private house, one of Mr.Daniel Tomkin's schools opened here ("Sutherland House" School), although the school moved to no.36 Camperdown before the first world war, where there were about 36 pupils. At that time the school was owned and run by Miss Jarvis. Whilst the German Navy were shelling the town, a shell passed right through the bay window of the older girls class room on the first floor. Travelling up Camperdown, it damaged houses on the west side of Nelson Road South. The schoolgirls helped to clear the mess from the shelling.*8 A Miss Brown then bought the school, but married an employee of Barclays Bank to become Mrs.Wright. The school eventually moved to Holt after the second world war. The house on Marine Parade was re-opened as Melton Lodge, an orthopaedic for children (presumably those with rickets and birth deformities). It was opened by the Princess Mary, and blessed by Aubrey Aiken, Vicar of Great Yarmouth, on 29th.January, 1921.*9 The building was converted into the "Regency Flats" in 1970. For several years it has been empty and largely derelict, damaged by fire, but in 1994 a splendid refurbishment as high quality residential flats has been completed by F.W.Wright, builders.

Shadingfield Lodge, June 1987

The Shadingfield Lodge was erected south of the assembly rooms, by James Cuddon, barrister at law, from a design by Morant, as his own residence. From 1868 to 1871 it was occupied by Arthur Henry Jenney, and then purchased by Samuel Nightingale.*9 When it became known that the Prince of Wales was to visit Great Yarmouth, it was Cuddon who offered the use of Shadingfield Lodge. The Prince arrived on 6th.June 1872, and left on 8th. It is said that no expense was spared in rendering the place fit for his visit. The Prince came back to stay here in 1879, 1881, 82, 85, 87, 95, and 1899.

Edward prince of Wales and officers, outside the Shadingfield.

Before and until immediately after the second world war, these premises were still a private house

then in the occupation of Sutton the fish merchant. During the last war they were used as an officer's mess, and after the war they were purchased by Lacon's and converted by them into a small hotel, restaurant and bar as they remain today.

Masonic Lodge 1987

The Masonic Lodge was erected as the Assembly Rooms, which were public reading rooms. These premises were commandeered by the Navy in the second world war. It is now the meeting place of the Society of Freemasons.

The Carlton Hotel has always been an hotel, but was initially called the "Victoria Hotel". It was erected as part of the original scheme by the Victoria Building Company to provide a grand frontage as at Brighton. Erected prior to 1863, the architect's impression of the proposed work at Albert Square was grand in the extreme, and could not be undertaken due to the cost.

The Grand Plan (never undertaken)

The Victoria Building Company had been formed in 1841, (Secretary C.J. Palmer) for the purpose of providing large and elegant houses for the accommodation of the higher classes of sea bathers, and partly by purchase and partly by arrangement with the town council, possessed a large extent of building ground upon the South Denes. In 1845 only three houses had been erected, a range called Kimberley Terrace, the terrace itself being 40 feet wide, and 480 feet long, with a substantial sea-wall of white brick with stone coping, seats and a flight of steps at the north end. There were two spacious private houses, and the Victoria Hotel, finished in 1843. £17,000, was expended on these, and the next construction to take place was of Brandon Terrace and a street of "second class" houses called "Camperdown Place".

The Pleasure Beach

First opened in 1909, this was then known as the "Beach Amusement Centre". The terms of the lease, were such that at that time there could only be three attractions on the site*9. These included a scenic railway and the "Joy Ride", a roofed-over round-about. The council have just sold the freehold (1993/4). In the thirties John Plane worked as a labourer in the gang constructing the pleasure beach. The construction manager was a German, Herr Heidrich, who had his own team of German labourers, and was most unpleasant to work for, but nevertheless he took on a few local men. John Plane subsequently was electrician manager at the Pleasure Beach until 1945.

The Pier Restaurant is opposite the Wellington Pier, next to the Royal Hotel. The army occupied it during the war, and it was in a poor state afterwards, so that Gladys Plane (see Row 97) bought it quite cheaply. They had built fourteen chalets to billet soldiers at the back, so Gladys took advantage of this and converted them all into bedrooms. She was so successful at this that there was only just enough room to get into a bed, and eventually they could accommodate the amazing total of 114 people in 14 chalets plus the rooms over the restaurant itself‑ and they lived there themselves also! The property (approx 1984) was leased out to a Hungarian who also had the lease of the Holkham (once owned by the Ellis family). During the war there was no holiday trade, and the guest houses were taken over by the services. Gladys Plane then worked at Fastolff House on Regent Street as an insurance agent, and they stayed in temporary lodgings. Gamble, a Frenchman, had owned the Pier Restaurant before the war, and afterwards it was sold by auction. It had then been called the "Cantab". There was a bomb damage claim and an Army damage claim outstanding on the property, and by good fortune, when these were eventually paid out they were for more than the building cost to buy at the auction! Later she acquired the St.Peter's Cafe, and the "Ocean Spray" restaurant in the Britannia Terrace, which she also still owns, but it is still leased, by Mr.Cutajar. Gladys Plane also then owned the bungalow behind the Shadingfield (built by Jack Munnings of Lowestoft).

Royal Hotel when owned by Elizabeth Sizeland, about 1875

The Royal Hotel was at one time licensed by Elizabeth Sizeland, whose name was on a parapet above the second floor windows. Elizabeth Sizeland was licensee in 1863.

The Pier Dining Rooms were purchased by Gladys Plane*11 after the war. She had at the age of 18, worked at 18 Nelson Road South, (a guest house) and met her husband John there, as he was the proprietor's son. Gladys was the driving force in their partnership, being determined not to die in poverty like her mother had in row 40, worn out with perpetual childbirth. She had her only child, John, whilst at her mother in law's house. Gladys had first moved out of Mrs.Plane's establishment on Nelson Road South to a house she purchased on Clarence Road‑ the "Gothic buildings". Gladys had taken in Scots Fisher girls, with their boxes of possessions. They brought their bugs with them as well, being infested with lice! They were very generous however, and as they didn't sell whiting in those days, only herring, they would bring them back for supper. She put up 24 Scots girls at a time. The lady who sold her the house for two hundred pounds fortunately allowed her to pay at the end of the summer, otherwise she couldn't have managed. She even had one bath taken out, and put three girls into the bathroom. The house here, opposite to Bob Smith's garages, was built faced with quarry tiles, but they have all been painted over.

The Gem Cinema is now the Windmill Theatre, also housing Ripley's "Believe it or not". The theatre was built circa 1907/8, thought to be only the second purpose-built cinema in the country. C.B.Cochrane built it especially for movie picture showing. The two side arches were open during business hours, and closed by roller shutters at other times. *9

as the Windmill Theatre, 1987.

The Sand Artist

The Sand Artist.htm

The towers of the Hippodrome can be seen on the right.

Gilbert’s the first circus, before the hippodrome

the Hippodrome, open to the front, before 1909.

Ruston diesel engine of 1926, at the Hippodrome, photo by P. Trett, 20/5/71, used to pump the water into the tank under the ring.

Stables at the Hippodrome, 1971, photo by P. Trett.

The Jetty Dining Rooms

Alderman Percy Charles Ellis was Mayor of Great Yarmouth in 1934. He ran the jetty dining Rooms, although they were owned jointly by his sisters.

Inside the dining room.

Here is a picture of Percy with his sister Queenie, when babies. On the corner of Wellington Road, where there is now the bus office, (also see St.Peter's Road) Percy's brother had the "fifty one" restaurant. Their parents were Charles Arthur, and Freda (prev. Goate). The jetty dining rooms were owned by Charles Arthur Ellis, but when he bought it he immediately gave it to his daughters to provide them with an income. They in turn leased it to Percy. It was already of course, a restaurant‑ Garrett's dining rooms.

as Garrett’s Dining Room, 1900.

Percy already possessed a shop, which is now Doughty's sports shop on Regent Road, but which already was a tobacconist's. Ernest, another brother, was a painter and decorator. Percy was Mayor in 1934, and there is a photo of him in his Mayoral Robes (not currently included). The jetty dining rooms had been used during the war by the war ministry. Reginald Ellis sold the dining room in St.Peter's Road in 1949, and died shortly thereafter. The Jetty dining rooms did open briefly after the war, but were pulled down to make way for the "Golden Nuggett" amusements, where Kathleen Powles' son has just been offered a job, but is none too keen. Wages in this type of employment are still extremely low. Charles Ellis owned the fish shop on Regent Road that eventually became Masterson's, the fish shop there to this day.

Mrs Ellis –Percy’s mother, and family

In this photo of the Ellis family, with Freda their mother: the girl on the front right is Queenie, the baby in arms is Gladys, Percy is the right hand boy, Joseph was the oldest boy, Ernest was the next boy, and Reg the younger boy, but there was a later boy also, who was Leonard, but born after the photo was taken.

On Tuesday May 2nd 1922 there was an auction at the Star Hotel, when the Jetty Dining Rooms were sold by the trustees under the wills of the late Charles Rackham and Joseph Ellis. Charles Ellis, Joseph's son, actually acquired the property in this auction. The jetty rooms were described as having a frontage

to Marine Parade of thirty two feet, and a return frontage to Lancaster Road of 107 feet.

extract from Deeds of jetty dining rooms

There was also lot two, the two floor brick and slate built exhibition, known as the "worlds fair", adjoining to the south of lot one. This had a frontage to Marine Parade of forty two feet three inches. A deed dated 15th.May 1859, from the Mayor Aldermen and Burgesses, to Samuel Brock and Richard Brown, was a lease of a "piece of ground on the Denes", for 75 years at 5 shillings per annum. There is a small plan included, which shows an area of bare ground with a warehouse and lookout upon it. There is a frontage to Marine Parade of 76 feet, and the Bath Hotel cottages are to the south, with Lancaster Road to the north. The oldest deed is dated March 3rd., 1753, an attested copy of bargain and sale of a tar house, goods in trade, and assignments of debt in trade between Samuel Errington to George Errington. Samuel Errington the elder of Great Yarmouth was a rope maker, and the site was purchased for the sum of two hundred pounds. His son George Errington was also town ropemaker. There was a tar house and a shed, belonging to the spinning ground on the Denes, abutting against the east mount wall. The tar house, standing and being on the Denes, now in his own occupation, was built by Henry Brown, and bought and purchased by Sam.Errington from Nathaniel Symonds and Henry Gibson, executors of Henry Brown, together with the tar, copper etc.

Picture of the staff at carnival time outside the front of the jetty dining room. Percy junior left front, Percy Ellis on the right.

Kathleen Powles of Row 142, was one of the waitresses at the jetty dining rooms in 1932. They had to work from 7am. to 11pm., serving breakfast lunch and supper. Percy junior was something of a snob, and did all he could to show up the waitresses, who also had Percy senior shouting at them to hurry up, whilst his wife sat in the pay booth! The waitresses had three bosses, and Percy often had them in tears. They received 15 shillings a week for seven days a week. They had to carry their trays head high, and wore black dresses, white collar and cuffs, a little white apron and a hat.

The Sailor's Home now the Maritime Museum, was opened in February 1861 as a refuge for shipwrecked sailors.

The Marina

On the site of the Marina Centre the open air pool was opened by Councillor Brett*10 in 1922. The boating lake was added in 1926. The goat carts worked in the area south of here in the 1890's, but were in due course prohibited by statute. In 1898, the Yarmouth branch of the R.S. P.C.A. asked that all goat carriages be licensed, like other Hackney carriages. *3 (photograph above)

The Holkham and Queen's (New Beach) Hotels

Nightingale’s Queens Hotel, now the “New Beach”.

Leonard Ellis had the Holkham Hotel at one time, that had belonged to his father. They also had the fish‑stall house in the market place. Their father had a fish exporting business, there were steeps in various parts in the town for the herring. Charles Ellis lost his fortune in some overseas investment. Percy had firstly the sweet shop in Regent Road, then the Jetty Dining Rooms, and went into the Royal Army Pay corps in the 2nd.W.War. After the war, with his wife, he managed The Queens Hotel. (now the "New Beach")

The arcade on right, photographed 1987.

The Coastguard Station, about 1880. Now the “Oasis” stands here.

The “Oasis”, 1987.

Goode’s Hotel on the left

Caesar's Palace now an amusement arcade is the former Goode's Hotel that was damaged by fire, having houses a popular ballroom. Formerly on the site was Winton's Rooms, also destroyed by a fire, on 5th.Sept. 1901, which had been owned by the Goode Brothers. Before that this was Lord Berner's summer residence. Winton's Rooms had a magnificent ballroom, and an equally superb first floor dining room. Immediately south of this establishment was until the 1960's the coastguard station now rebuilt as the ugly Oasis Hotel, viewing tower, discotheque and shops. The beachmen operated from this area before the establishment of the coastguard station, with their rickety look-out towers, making a living from salvage. Plans were published in the G.Y.Mercury of 24/6/94 to replace the oasis with a new "glass palace".

Lord Berner’s House, later Winton’s Rooms, with the Coastguard Station to the left.

Winton’s Rooms

Winton’s Rooms 5^th Sept 1901.

The ballroom in Winton’s Rooms

The Bar in Winton’s Rooms.

Paul Robeson was on at the Empire Theatre (now “Bourbon Street”)

The Empire Theatre opened on 1st.July, 1911. Paul Robeson appeared here one early summer season this century.

Inside the Empire Theatre.

The foundations of Britannia Terrace were laid as early as 1847.

Britannia Terrace in its heyday.

Britannia Terrace 1987, Othello Restaurant is highly recommended.

The Royalty Theatre

the Royal Aquarium in the background, note revolving tower to the right.

Mrs.Nightingale of the Royal Aquarium (Royalty Theatre) was the owner then. Mrs.Nightingale's daughter married Kenneth Deane. (son of Dr.Deane) Percy died at the Queens on Christmas eve, 1947. He had played a large part in organising and fund raising for the re‑building of the parish church, which was not actually opened again until 1961 (perhaps he may best be remembered for this). He was buried in the churchyard immediately adjoining the church.

The Longboats

Tom Parker of row 90 had longboats on the beach that were used to row out to Scroby with the visitors in the twenties. Bob Haylett of Wellington Road was also engaged in this trade. Parker was an Irishman who wore a white jacket and starched waistcoat. Haylett wore a navy pullover and "cheese-cutter" hat. They used to tell tales of wrecks and ship's bells tolling under the sea!

The German Invasion Repelled

One Sunday evening, in September 1940, at the height of the German offensive, there was one night in the town, a call to "action stations". Some of the home guard a body made up of first world war veterans and youngsters in the main, were at the cinema, and a hand scrawled message "action stations" was flashed upon the screen. The guard assembled at their headquarters, then the disused St.Peter's school. The men were dispatched to the beach on Marine Parade, and ordered to dig trenches and were faced out to sea. They remained at their post during the entire night, and witnessed a fierce sea battle that took place immediately over the horizon. This encounter was named "Shingle Street" :-

Robert Postle about the invasion

The local defence volunteers were first formed at the time of Dunkirk, and were open to anyone over 16 years of age and under 70, after a few months, gradually kitted out with uniform and weapons, they became the home guard, and at the time of this alarm, since they had not all been issued with rifles, they were given some crates of mineral water bottles that had been made into Molotov cocktails (petrol bombs). Some were marched up to the site of the scenic railway, and some beyond. All the other troops billeted in the town were put on alert too. There were no spades or shovels, and thus the holes in the beach had to be roughly dug with anything they could find. The troops had only been on the beach a short while, when there were loud explosions from across the sea, and the whole horizon was lit up with flashes and then an undulating flame across the whole of the expanse of sea towards the south. After some time this eventually subsided. Then about 3 a.m., a bicycle bell rang up by the sea wall, and a man called to them to go home. Afterwards no-one, including the officers were informed as to what had happened. Some ten days later though, a man who was one of the crew of the Humber Lightship, which was towed into Yarmouth harbour and tied up alongside Palgrave Brown's yard, riddled with machine gun bullets, told of hundreds of bodies in German uniforms floating around the lightship and into the Humber. Officially this sea battle did not exist. Clearly it was a very substantial one, with huge flames rising into the sky, visible many miles away. A sailor that came into Yarmouth a while after reported that there had been a German invasion, but the British Destroyers were waiting, circled around the German fleet and poured oil on the water, setting fire to it, and then shooting the Germans. Another man reported that the British fleet was commanded by Lord Louis Mountbatten. It appears that the German "enigma"code machine had been captured from a "U"boat and was used to decode messages warning of the German invasion. This was enormously secret. Because of this, and perhaps because we had broken the rules of war, and also no doubt because the Germans for their part did not wish to admit to a defeat, this sea battle has been kept secret to this very day. It has been said that a book about it and the decoding centre has been suppressed.*13a

the “Two Bobs” and their horse drawn brake.

The Four Horse Brakes and charabancs were in the twenties operated by the "Two Bobs". One was Bob Yaxley, the other partner, Robert Edward Fryer was born in 1882, and died in 1951. In those days they enjoyed themselves and any spare money was spent upon the drink even whilst still at work. The horses knew where to go! The trips were to Stokesby, or Burgh Castle or Belton, and they had a good sing-song on the way home. When they returned, they would call into the pubs if still open, before they went home again. Times were hard, but they never saved. Arthur Sayers was another coachman here, with the Violet coaches. Fryer was something of an entertainer, and could attract a crowd, soon filling his carriage for the trip. At one time he was renowned for this and for the sing-songs. Visiting Stokesby, there was a "country bumpkin" who would put a rope on the horses and hold them until they came out of the pub. The procedure then was that Bob Friar held out a handful of money to this man, who singled out the coppers and always left any silver. This became quite an amusement, and the passengers would likewise hold out their handfuls of change, the man dutifully taking only coppers, and no doubt making out he was quite dumb. It seems that he did very well at this! Then when the motor driven charabancs came in, this same practice continued, and the man tied the charabanc to the rail with his rope attached to the bumper. He still got paid, and this continued until the war! One day, just before the outbreak of war, Mr.Sayers had gone to sleep on the back of his new coach on the seafront, tanked up with beer as usual. When he awoke, he found himself in Birmingham. He had failed to keep up the H.P. payments on the vehicle, and the company had it repossessed with Mr.Sayers still inside it! He had to return by train! Bob Friar during the war became a special constable, and thereafter retired. Friar first brought up a family of eight on Middlemarket Road and then moved to no.4 Shuckford's buildings in 1936. (see Friars Lane re no.5) Bob Junior latterly lived there in the attic when they first married, and moved out in 1952. There now is Sainsbury's Car-park. At that time the bell was tolled at 7.50 a.m. at Grouts when the 1500 or so girls started work in the factory. Bob jnr. started work as a lather boy for Burrage the barber, opposite to his home, on St. Nicholas Road.. He worked the soap up and powdered the faces after, for 1/8 per week, of which 1/6 went to his mother and he kept two pence. At Christmas there was a lad's Christmas box, a model light-house that lit up whenever a coin was inserted. This at a penny or so a time could add up to as much as three pounds. Young Bob was called up in the war, and afterwards went into butchery, working for "Taygreen" (Taylor and Greengrass, in Brasenose Avenue, which was built on a virgin site). Bob Friar senior married a Haylett. His father had lived on in Row eight, and had a blacksmith's in Northgate Street. Bob Friar jnr. married Queenie Reynolds, the daughter of Oscar, who worked the coaches on St.Peters Road with Ernest Bean.

The Britannia Pier was re-built in 1901-02, at a cost of £65,000, which included a new pavilion to seat 2000 persons.

In 1910 it was burned down, and there was a second devastating fire in 1914. The building currently can seat 1000 people. It is not officially recorded, but on 3rd.June 1941, the army deliberately blew up the centre of the pier as a defence in case of invasion. On Friday 22nd. August 1941, just before 4.30pm., a German 'plane dive-bombed a British warship about a mile out from the pier. Out of a complement of 98 men, 68 lost their lives. Thirty men were brought into Yarmouth, some with terrible injuries.*13b